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Audi Forum: 2004 S4 Piston Ring Failure?
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:59 PM
MarkF MarkF is offline
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Question 2004 S4 Piston Ring Failure?

I'm the 3rd owner of a 04 S4 that now has 82,300 miles. Car has been meticulously maintained by previous two owners at the Audi dealer where it was purchased new. Car never mistreated. I purchased car in March / 2012. Have put on about 2,500 miles. Check oil light came on after first 1,000 miles. Since that time it's used a quart of oil about every 700 miles. Audi dealer checked it out and found no evidence of oil consumption. Plugs are clean, no smoke, no oil burning smell, no drops of oil on garage floor, car runs great. They ran diagnostic codes, Audi Technical group said that the piston rings are bad and need to be replaced at a cost of $5,500!
I have appealed to Audi N. American today. My position is that Audi has serviced the car from day one. Must be a mechanical defect in the engine.
Can anyone contribute information on this issue for me.
Thanks,
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:23 PM
5.0rick 5.0rick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkF View Post
I'm the 3rd owner of a 04 S4 that now has 82,300 miles. Car has been meticulously maintained by previous two owners at the Audi dealer where it was purchased new. Car never mistreated. I purchased car in March / 2012. Have put on about 2,500 miles. Check oil light came on after first 1,000 miles. Since that time it's used a quart of oil about every 700 miles. Audi dealer checked it out and found no evidence of oil consumption. Plugs are clean, no smoke, no oil burning smell, no drops of oil on garage floor, car runs great. They ran diagnostic codes, Audi Technical group said that the piston rings are bad and need to be replaced at a cost of $5,500!
I have appealed to Audi N. American today. My position is that Audi has serviced the car from day one. Must be a mechanical defect in the engine.
Can anyone contribute information on this issue for me.
Thanks,
Looks like it has been a while since your post, hopefully you still have the car. You might have a faulty PCV valve. Basically, the oil is getting sucked into the intake and burned off. My 2008 S4 had this problem and it leads to problems with compression. Check out my post on how to clean the sludge build up from all the burned oil.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:39 AM
5.0rick 5.0rick is offline
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Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum and new to Audis. I purchased a 2008

S4 Cabriolet some months back and to my disappointment

experienced oil consumtion issues. The car was still under

warranty so I took it to the dealer for the oil consumption

test. The results were .73 quarts for 700 miles which made it

pass by a tiny bit and got Audi off the hook for any repairs

or replacement engine

The engine has 52,000 miles now so I decided to replace a

few parts including spark plugs and PCV valve. I noticed that

all of the cylinders had a lot of carbon build up (while

replacing the plugs) and theorized on whether or not I had a

faulty PCV valve which was the culprit on the oil consumption.

Since the plugs were out, I also decided to do a compression

test and the results were very disappointing. The compression

was really low on the 2 front cylinders on the drivers side -

123 psi (below the minimum 130 psi). BTW, the compression test

was done with a hot engine.

So here is my theory, a bad PCV valve leads to the engine

sucking down oil and gunking up pistons, combustion chambers,

and ring lands (grooves in the piston where the rings are).

This sludge basically "glues" the rings in the pistons and

compression is lost due to no free movement of the rings in

the piston lands.

I am a long time DIY mechanic and have always used a product

called Berrymanns B12 Chemtool for carburators and for

stripping fuel/oil varnish. I decided to soak the pistons and

combustion chambers to see if this would restore compression

(if the rings were indeed "glued" in the pistons).


Here is the procedure that I followed.

1. After all plugs are out - spray a large doze of B12 and let

sit/soak for 2 hrs. I used a full can -20oz.
2. Use a manual transmission fluid pump with a small hose (one

that fits through the spark plug hole) to suck out all of the

B12 with the varnish and carbon bits. Some B12 will remain as

you wont be able to get all of it out.
3. Place an old towel (rags) over the valve covers to catch

any B12 and turn motor over a few times with the starter.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3.
5. Install spark plugs and coils and drive the car for 30-45

minutes. I noticed a big difference in idle and throttle

response.

As soon as I got back to the garage, I took out the spark

plugs of the 2 sick cylinders and ran another compression test

(pulled the fuel pump fuse as well). The new compression tests

yielded readings of 138 psi on both cylinders. That is an

increase of 15 psi but more important, a reading above the

minimum of 130 psi.

Needless to say, I am extremely pleased with the results but I

believe that there is still quite a bit of sludge in the

motor. I have found a product called Kreen from Bano Labs and

I will be adding some next week. If anyone is interested,

there is an interesting thread here -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?

ubb=showflat&Number=1940735

I hope this helps someone. Let me know if you have any

questions.

Regards,

Rick
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